- 1st Day: Meeting with the guide in Staffal around 01:30p.m. After the equipment check, with the lift system, we will arrive at Colle Bettaforca. From there, we will start the nice walking to the Q. Sella hut. The last part of the trail follows a rock ridge equipped with iron steps and ropes. We overnight in the hut.
- Up: 3:30 hours - 850m
- 2nd Day: Departure at around 5:00a.m depending on the period of the year. Along the Felik glacier, we will reach the Felik Pass and from there we will start the ascent to Lyskamm West, along its regular route, the West ridge. On top of it, starts the Lyskamm traverse itself, which connects the two summits. From Lyskamm East we will start the descent in direction of the "Rocce della Scoperta". Arrived at the base of the ridge we will join the main trail coming down from Colle del Lys and follow it down to the Rif. Gnifetti, where we will sleep one night.
- Up: 6:00 hours 1000m
- Down: 3:00 hours 950m
- 3rd Day: Departure at around 7:00a.m depending on the period of the year. We will start to walk along the Lys Glacier in direction of the Balmenhorn; we will pass it and we will arrive at the Colle Zurbriggen, between Corno Nero and the Ludwigshohe. We will climb the first one along the north slope and, after the descent from it, we will cross the summit of Ludwigshohe. We will go down on the opposite side and start the traverse of Parrotspitze. Arrived at the Colle Sesia we will start our last ascent of the day to the Capanna Margherita, where we will spend the night.
- Up: 4:30 hours 1146m
- Down: 1:00 hours 240m
- 4th Day: Departure at around 5:00a.m. depending on the period of the year. We will go down along the Grenz glacier until the approximate altitude of 4000 meters. We will climb up the small glacier between Dufour and Zumstein until the base of the ridge. We will follow the ridge close to its edge and we will arrive exactly on top of the Dufourspitze 4634m. On the way back, we will follow the Italian regular route crossing the summit of Zumsteispitze. After a quick stop to Gnifetti hut to repack, we will go back to the cable car and the valley.
- Up: 3:30 hours 750m
- Down: 5-6 hours 2000m
Meeting point: At 01:30pm in our office in Staffal (Hotel Nordend near to the bar
FZRY).
Requirements: Steep terrain, exposed snow ridges, rock climbing up to grade III°.
You should have already made similar ascents. This tour is achievable to confirmed mountaineers in really good shape.
Apparel/Clothing: We recommend functional clothing to deal with the different temperatures.
Boots: Waterproof mountaineering boots suitable for crampons.
Lunch: it is reccomended to bring some snacks and drinks with you, according to your needs.
Backpack: We recommend a 30L/40L backpack. Remember that everything you bring you have to carry it. Take with you functional, extra layer in case of cold and a change for the hut, is usually enough.
Drinks, lunch, travel expenses if necessary boots rental and all the other services not included .
We always recommend a travel cancellation insurance, baggage insurance as well as travel and accident insurance.
