Program

1st day: Meeting with the guide in Staffal around 10:00; equipment check. With the lift system we arrive at the Passo della Bettaforca; from there we start to walk along the trail in direction of the Sella hut. At the Colle Bettolina Sup. We go down in the Champoluc valley until the Piani di Verra Superiori from where we start to ascent to Guide di Ayas hut. On the way up, we stop for a quick rest at the Mezzalama hut. The last part of the ascent is quite steep with some fixed ropes. At the Guide di Ayas hut, we overnight.

2nd day: Departure around 6:00 depending on the period of the year. First, we walk along the glacier in direction of the base of the Pollux SW ridge. We climb this peak along the rocky SW ridge (some places are equipped with ropes. The last part is along an easy snow ridge to the top. On the way down, we follow the same itinerary. From the base, we traverse in direction of the Castore West face. We walk along the slopes almost to the top of the face; we cross the “bergschrund” and we follow the last narrow snow ridge to the top. On the way down, we follow the popular East ridge to Colle Felik and after a steeper section; we arrive on the Felik Glacier that we cross in direction of the Sella hut where we overnight.

3rd day: Departure at around 6:00 depending on the period of the year. From the hut, we walk along the West Lys Glacier, just below the Lyskamm south face. We arrive at the base of the Naso del Lyskamm. Depending on the condition, we can climb it along the snow face or following the rocks on the left. From the top, we go down along a steep snow face to the Lys Glacier. We start to walk along this glacier, we pass the Lys Pass and we keep going up to the Margherita hut where we overnight.

4th day: Departure at around 6:00 depending on the period of the year. We climb first the Zumsteinspitze along the regular route. From this first summit, we start the descent to the valley and on the way, depending on our shape; we can climb others peak, such as Parrotspitze, Ludwigshohe and Corno Nero. From this last one we go down Rifugio Gnifetti. We stop here for few minutes, we repack everything and we go down to P.ta Indren lift station.

Group size

Maximum 3 participants

Services

Mountain Guide IFMGA or Asp. Guide for four days

Dates

On request, we can individualy organise this tour during all summer season.

Additional costs

Overnight stay in the huts in HB also for the mountain guide, lift up to Passo Bettaforca and down from P.ta Indren, drinks, lunch, travel expenses, if necessary equipment.

Requirements

Difference in altitude Ascent 4050 m Descent 3410 m
Total duration ca. 24 – 26 h
No particular technical difficulties; the ascent to Pollux requires some easy climbing and a short effort to pass over the fixed ropes; the traverse of Naso del Lyskamm has some easy rocks and steep snow slopes. This tour is suitable for hikers in really good shape.

Program

1st day: Meeting with the guide in Staffal around 7:00a.m. – Equipment check. We will take the cable car up to Punta Indren. From here, we start to hike in direction of the base of the Cresta del Soldato; we climb the entire ridge until the P.ta Giordani and we keep going to the South ridge of Piramide Vincent. From this summit, we go down along its regular route to Gnifetti hut, where we overnight.

2nd day: Departure at around 7:00 depending on the period of the year. We start to walk along the Lys Glacier in direction of the Alpenhorn; we pass it and we arrive at the Colle Zurbriggen, between Corno Nero and the Ludwigshohe. We climb the first one along the north slope and, after the descent from it, we cross the summit of Ludwigshohe. We go down on the opposite side and we start the traverse of Parrotspitze. Once that we are at the Colle Sesia we start our last ascent of the day to the Capanna Margherita, where we overnight.

3rd day: Departure at around 5:00 depending on the period of the year. We climb in sequence Zumsteinspitze, Dufourspitze along the SE ridge and Nordend from Silbersattel. Once back to Silbersattel we start our way down along the Monte Rosa Glacier to the Monte Rosa hut. After a good rest, we take our way to Rotenboden, from where, with the train, we go down to Zermatt. Overnight in hotel.

4th day: Departure with the lift at 6:30 from Zermatt. From Kleines Matterhorn we traverse the Verra Glacier and we climb the Roccia Nera. Here start the Breithorn traverse connecting 5 different peaks over 4000 meters. From the top of Breithorn, west we go down to Guide di Ayas hut, where we overnight.

5th day: Departure around 6:00 depending on the period of the year. First, we walk along the glacier in direction of the base of the Pollux SW ridge. We climb this peak along the rocky SW ridge. The last part is along an easy snow ridge to the top. On the way down, we follow the same itinerary. From the base, we traverse in direction of the Castore that we climb along its West face. From the summit, we follow the popular regular route to the Sella hut, where we overnight.

6th day: Departure at around 5:00 depending on the period of the year. Along the Felik glacier, we reach the Felik Pass and from there we start the ascent to Lyskamm West along its regular route, the West ridge. On top of it, starts the Lyskamm traverse itself, which connects the two summits. From Lyskamm East we start the descent in direction of the “Rocce della Scoperta”. Arrived at the base of the ridge we can relax, join the main trail coming down from Colle del Lys and following it down to the Rif. Gnifetti and the lift station in P.ta Indren. Thanks to it we arrive in Staffal

Group size

Maximum 1 participant

Services

Mountain Guide IFMGA for 6 days

Dates

On request, we can individualy organise this tour during all summer season.

Additional costs

Overnight stay in the huts in HB and overnight stay in Zermatt in B&B also for the mountain guide, dinner in Zermatt, cable car to Punta indren and back, drinks, lunch, travel expenses, if necessary equipment.

Requirements

Difference in altitude Ascent 5456 m Descent 6060 m
Total duration ca. 47 – 49 h
Steep terrain, exposed snow ridges, rock climbing up to grade III° and confidence with abseiling technique. This tour has several important ascent and many days with not less than 8:00 to 9:00 hours of effort. We suggest it to all very experienced mountaineers in good shape.